1. BASF Wall tite is Not the best closed cell foam available. Its dimensional
    stability is Not good, which means it shrinks alot when it cools since it
    creates so much heat when being sprayed, its compressive strength is one of
    the lowest in the industry and the open cell content within this foam is 8%
    which is Really high..sooo Not the best no.

  2. I appreciate the contractor representatives honesty regarding the
    do-it-yourself installation benefits. I want to know more in depth the pros
    and cons of open to close in laymen terms. How does it affect one’s
    breathing quality? Although he was rude, I’m trying to understand the logic
    and expertise in d1incharge’s comment as it relates to my home.

  3. @BigDsunburst53 Its great when you are limited with space, but in a home
    you are not. 3.5″ walls allow for R-15 loose-fill/batts, beyond code in
    many places especially with a continuous insulation on the outside of a
    wall(more effective /inch than CC foam in a wall by far. Air sealing has to
    be done to the TWO air barriers in every wall, CC foam is not rated to be
    exposed on the outsie of a home(where it would penetrate to “seal” outsided
    walls) UV and water will destroy it.

  4. What do you do about all the homes that have foam installed, before the new
    codes forced the foamers to put the “fire coating” on the foams? Although
    the foams needed the coating before. First of all: 2 inches of closed cell
    foam is not a moisture barrier or a vapor barrier. Ask this “FOAMER” how
    many inches deep of closed cell do you need to spray to get to a “Vapor
    Barrier”, he will not know because he thinks it has “Properties” of vapor
    barriers? HMMMM? And always have vapor concerns,

  5. @d1incharge Vapor barriers are never used redundantly because of their perm
    rating, it would cause a condensation trap between the two. Also,unless the
    climate zone is always constant vapor barriers will become vapor traps
    depending the dominant heat gradient. CC foam does not rely on the perm
    rating of the product, it uses the resistance to static pressure and a low
    K-value to achieve it’s high ER. The properties of CC foam are the reason
    you have a frost free refrigerator.

  6. I hope you have better success. But BASF SPRAYTITE has been a closed cell
    foam from hell for us. An applicator in SC purchased the SPRAYTITE®
    polyurethane foam materials from a supplier near Charlotte, NC. The
    applicator applied it in Feb 2011 to our garage ceiling. After a week it
    started smelling like fish. After five months the applicator removed about
    60% of it and resprayed it. The new application has less odor. But the
    garage still smells. I wish we had never used this product.

  7. Building code requires that to be covered with drywall because its highly
    combustible. Also, I’ve seen a few basement where the foundations cracked
    real nice because the foam insulates very well (no heat escapes below
    grade, ground freezes and heaves the foundation wall in -Crrrack. Great
    stuff though, works amazing. Not sure about it saving money, usually rigid
    foam insulation is much cheaper.

  8. If the vapors are toxic, why would the installer NOT protect his head and
    ears, and why would he wear a suit that does not cover parts of the arm
    (there was skin between the suit and the glove in the video)? Where is the
    furnace? My understanding is that you can’t spray too close to one, and/or
    the pipes emanating from the furnace.

  9. I just did the math, and it’s cheaper to buy one thousand “Great Stuff”
    spray foam in a can from Home Depot. They’re on sale this week, too.

  10. @BigDsunburst53 Also in attic applications, insulating the ceiling vs. the
    roof deck is much more efficient no matter the type of insulation. You can
    install R-60 loosefill in an attic, but can barely creep by R-30 with spray
    foam which is also likely installed on the roof deck which is retarded.
    Condition the attic? Idiots! New homes are too tight w/out foam, both IRC
    and IECC are requireing mechanical ventilation now, w/out foam. Funny
    thing, you can get double the R for less $

  11. Do you have high energy bills? If you are looking to save more money in
    energy than what you spend in upgrades the first thing is to find out what
    you spend on heating and cooling. To know what your heat and cooling costs
    are you take your lowest annual bill, multiply it by 12. Then you add up
    your actual 12 months energy bills and find the difference of the two. Also
    to make better recommendations it might be handy to know your climate zone.

  12. @Alwaysthenaughty1 Why not? Rigid foam is closed cell foam, and the seams
    could easily be sealed. It is technically called an “air barrier” and
    moisture barrier, so how you claim it won’t seal sounds like an installer
    issue. Your “resitual cold” was something you made up, all these years in
    the home energy business, I don’t think I have heard that one. Resitual
    cold? Rigid foam, higher r-value/inch, same air seal quality, WAY CHEAPER,
    and you can DYI instead of hiring some goober.

  13. I have a 1870 house with stone basement / brick and mortar for the top 2
    feet. I wonder if closed cell foam would work well on stone. I have an
    estimate being done on Oct 25th – and the job is just 41ft x 7ft or
    287sq/ft. I’m thinking of using my pressure washer to clean the wall and
    get rid of the loose stuff. I suspect the estimate will be on the high side
    – and may just go with the touch’n seal 600 closed cell kit for about $600
    avail on ebay. The 600 kit covers 600sq/ft at an inch thick

  14. Here is advice from a licensed building performance analyst: Any contractor
    claiming “foam is the best” or that foam can in any way pay for itself in
    savings, or add any value to your home, is not only too stupid to do fairly
    simple math, but are crooked for claiming they have done the math and they
    WILL. Insulation is ONLY used for R-value, air sealing should be done on
    the TWO required air barriers in EVERY wall.

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